[geeks] HP Microserver - Observations pt 1

[Mark Benson]

Hi all,

Just thought I'd put out some observations now I'm let loose on my new HP
Proliant Microserver.

I highly recommend getting the service manual from HP. It is a bit of an
idiots guide for something this simple to work on but still - better safe than
sorry :)

Useful Tools:

Torx T-15 driver
Head Torch
A sturdy small screwdriver to use as a lever (see point 8)

1. The top cover (access to CD-ROM tray) is generally easy to (open door, undo
rear screw, slide forwards) remove *but* it is very stiff to slide off the
first time - mine took quite a lot of coercing to get off the first time.

2. The mainboard can seem be a royal pig to get out in spite of the simplicity
of the mounting system. Undo the two thumbscrews - mine had a white USB cable
obstructing the right one - and remove anything attached to the rear ports.
Seems simple but mine wouldn't budge more than 5mm. Remember to pull the ATX
power cable out from in front of the tray handle and pull it out of the way of
the sliding board. Also remember only pull it out as far as the arrow on the
right side until you have detached the plugs at the front.

3. The same applies when pushing the mainboard back in - make sure the ATX
power cable is out of the way and doesn't get fouled in the front of the tray
or the board. Slid the tray in, secure the screws, and *then* be sure to tuck
the power cabling under the handle on the front.

4. Installing an optical drive requires 2 additional parts
	a. a decent length SATAII cable one with a right-handed right angle connector
is preferable but a straight one will fit provided the plug is not more than
15-20mm tall.
	b. A Molex to SATA power adaptor. Christ knows in a computer cabinet with
SATA only why they gave you a Molex CD power cable...

5. HP's service manual has a minor error in it. When installing an Optical
Drive in the machine use the UPPER row of holes on each side not the lower
ones, as stated in the Service Manual.

6. With the top cover removed, don't be alarmed if the door falls off. It's
designed to (I think). In the fully open position you should just be able to
life it vertically and it will detach at the hinges. To replace just drop the
two lugs back into the hinge holes and swing shut.

7. With the door detached it's easier to get to the Optical Drive and Hard
Disk Drive screws i nthe door panel. I'm still super impressed they did that
:)

8. Inside the top cover, you will need to do some light levering to remove the
metal panel that covers the Optical Drive aperture. It is tricky to remove it
without bending the metal panel behind the glowing HP badge.

9. With reference to 8 above, be careful no to lean on the 'top' part of the
top panel while levering. It is not super strong and you can push the
90-degree bend out a bit, making the panel fit poorly when replaced.

10. When sliding the panel back on, I found there is a lug at the back on the
left (as you face the front of the unit) that does not line up so easily and
will stop the lid sliding back all the way. A swift stab with the butt of my
hand on the front made it jump into place and the lid slide back to it's
correct installed position, so there is no gap at the back-top and the screw
can be screwed in completely.

That's my hardware guide for now. If I think of anything else I'll post an
addition. I'll also be posting to my blog with pictures later in the week if I
get to it.


--
Mark Benson

My Blog:
<http://markbenson.org/blog>
Follow me on Twitter:
http://twitter.com/mdbenson

"Never send a human to do a machine's job..."