[rescue] Fixed LCD's?

Steve Hatle shatle at nfldinet.com
Wed Feb 19 13:06:33 CST 2014


I have a Hakko FX-888D that I received at Christmas.
I like it a lot, but the default tip on the iron wasn't my favorite - it
was kind of a "chisel" shape instead of coming to a point. 
The spring action solder sucker works OK, but I can see that the
dedicated Hakko 808 would be pretty sweet. I'm still in my "apprentice"
phase of learning the soldering side, but I may consider one of those if
I end up doing a lot of this type of work on my old machines.
One thing that was helpful to me was go to the FreeGeek (or perhaps your
local electronics recyler) and grab a bunch of trash boards and practice
the desolder/solder process on stuff you don't have to care about :-)
Steve

  -------- Original Message --------
  Subject: Re: [rescue] Fixed LCD's?
  From: hike <mh1272 at gmail.com>
  Date: Wed, February 19, 2014 12:58 pm
  To: The Rescue List <rescue at sunhelp.org>

  These are the soldering irons that were recommended.

  Aoyue 937
  Hakko FX-888 (the FX-888D was the closest found)
  Weller WES(D)51 (Weller were specifically not recommended by most)
  OKI MFR 2241

  A Hakko 808 desoldering gun was also recommended for the initial part
  of
  the process. A desoldering device was included in the price.

  No other model were recommended or check. It is hard to come up with
  a
  list of viable tools without recommendation.

  I greatly appreciate those who took the time to respond with actual
  manufacturer model numbers. No other model were recommended or
  checked.
  It is hard to come up with a list of viable tools without
  recommendations
  with model numbers.

  On Tue, Feb 18, 2014 at 8:35 PM, Nick B <nick at pelagiris.org> wrote:

  > Yeah, while I would not use a 8$ radio shack iron you can get a
  decent no
  > name iron for 40 or so, and a solder sucker for a few bucks. Sure,
  they
  > won't last long, buy even a hakko iron is only 100 on the low end,
  new. 3
  > or 400 is a hell of a lot of iron.
  > Nick
  > On Feb 18, 2014 5:13 PM, "Toby Thain" <toby at telegraphics.com.au>
  wrote:
  >
  > > On 18/02/14 4:57 PM, hike wrote:
  > >
  > >> So and based on the information in the thread, it takes at least
  $300 of
  > >> equipment/stuff to de-solder a failed cap and resolver a new
  cap. This
  > is
  > >> in addition to learning to solder well enough to tackle this
  process.
  > So,
  > >> hereb s another reason people chuck failed LCDs in the binb the
  high
  > cost
  > >> of
  > >> entry to be able to do repairs. I would think that I would have
  to sell
  > >> 10
  > >> repaired monitors to cover the cost of equipment/supplies.
  > >>
  > >> The second set of suggested equipment with supplies would be at
  least
  > $800
  > >> and that would make the break even point even further out.
  > >>
  > >> So while some lament the fact of failed hardware being thrown
  out, it
  > >> really is a good choice just to take to the recycle and buy a
  new one at
  > >> the store/eBay/Craigslist/NewEgg. (For us, there is a recycle
  place at
  > >> the
  > >> dump where we take our garbage. No extra gas needed.)
  > >>
  > >> The biggest issues for me personally are (1) finding someone or
  some
  > place
  > >> to train me how to do this process
  > >>
  > >
  > > http://badcaps.net
  > >
  > > Replace bulging/leaking capacitors.
  > >
  > > There, you're trained. That site will also teach you to make
  other simple
  > > repairs, like the 18 cent resistor that I mentioned which
  restored a 24"
  > > Samsung. Search on the model numbers and board numbers.
  > >
  > > The hardest part of the process is *opening* the damn things.
  > >
  > > > and (2) how to find $300 in my already
  > >
  > > Doesn't cost $300. You can do this with a soldering iron and a
  brain.
  > >
  > > tight budget. A minor issue is finding a supplier of failed LCDs.
  > There
  > >> are several businesses that I could contact close to me.
  > >>
  > >>
  > >>
  > > That should be the easy part. Any dealer in used computer parts
  will be
  > > aware of this problem of "mysteriously dead LCDs" -- usually aged
  3-5
  > years
  > > or "just outside warranty".
  > >
  > > Your hit rate should be something like 90% from my experience.
  > >
  > > --Toby
  > > _______________________________________________
  > > rescue list - http://www.sunhelp.org/ mailman/listinfo/rescue
  > _______________________________________________
  > rescue list - http://www.sunhelp.org/ mailman/listinfo/rescue
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