[rescue] Fixed LCD's?

[Joshua Boyd]

On February 19, 2014 2:17:17 PM EST, Joshua Boyd <jdboyd at jdboyd.net> wrote:
>For people in the US at least.  If you go to sparkfun.com and buy their
>sparkfun branded soldering iron with separate power supply for about
>$45, you will get a good enough unit for serious getting started.

To clarify, only the first one is from personal experience.

>If you go to RadioShack and get their more than $50 but less than $100
>store brand iron, it will probably be good enough to get started.
>
>If you search the web and get an Auyoe 936 or 937 it will also probably
>be good enough.
>
>
>On February 19, 2014 2:07:55 PM EST, hike <mh1272 at gmail.com> wrote:
>>Frankly, a recommendation for "you can get a decent no
>>name iron for 40 or sob
 is not very helpful for someone without any
>>experience in this area.  Without a manufacturer model number, it is
>>impossible for a novice to decide whether a b
no name ironb
 is
>>actually a
>>good soldering iron.  Specifics help novices find things (and possibly
>>knowledgable people to help in learning).
>>
>>
>>
>>On Tue, Feb 18, 2014 at 8:35 PM, Nick B <nick at pelagiris.org> wrote:
>>
>>> Yeah, while I would not use a 8$ radio shack iron you can get a
>>decent no
>>> name iron for 40 or so, and a solder sucker for a few bucks.  Sure,
>>they
>>> won't last long, buy even a hakko iron is only 100 on the low end,
>>new.  3
>>> or 400 is a hell of a lot of iron.
>>> Nick
>>> On Feb 18, 2014 5:13 PM, "Toby Thain" <toby at telegraphics.com.au>
>>wrote:
>>>
>>> > On 18/02/14 4:57 PM, hike wrote:
>>> >
>>> >> So and based on the information in the thread, it takes at least
>>$300 of
>>> >> equipment/stuff to de-solder a failed cap and resolver a new cap.
>
>>This
>>> is
>>> >> in addition to learning to solder well enough to tackle this
>>process.
>>>  So,
>>> >> hereb s another reason people chuck failed LCDs in the binb the
>>high
>>> cost
>>> >> of
>>> >> entry to be able to do repairs.  I would think that I would have
>>to sell
>>> >> 10
>>> >> repaired monitors to cover the cost of equipment/supplies.
>>> >>
>>> >> The second set of suggested equipment with supplies would be at
>>least
>>> $800
>>> >> and that would make the break even point even further out.
>>> >>
>>> >> So while some lament the fact of failed hardware being thrown
>out,
>>it
>>> >> really is a good choice just to take to the recycle and buy a new
>>one at
>>> >> the store/eBay/Craigslist/NewEgg.  (For us, there is a recycle
>>place at
>>> >> the
>>> >> dump where we take our garbage.  No extra gas needed.)
>>> >>
>>> >> The biggest issues for me personally are (1) finding someone or
>>some
>>> place
>>> >> to train me how to do this process
>>> >>
>>> >
>>> > http://badcaps.net
>>> >
>>> > Replace bulging/leaking capacitors.
>>> >
>>> > There, you're trained. That site will also teach you to make other
>>simple
>>> > repairs, like the 18 cent resistor that I mentioned which restored
>>a 24"
>>> > Samsung. Search on the model numbers and board numbers.
>>> >
>>> > The hardest part of the process is *opening* the damn things.
>>> >
>>> > > and (2) how to find $300 in my already
>>> >
>>> > Doesn't cost $300. You can do this with a soldering iron and a
>>brain.
>>> >
>>> >  tight budget.  A minor issue is finding a supplier of failed
>LCDs.
>>>  There
>>> >> are several businesses that I could contact close to me.
>>> >>
>>> >>
>>> >>
>>> > That should be the easy part. Any dealer in used computer parts
>>will be
>>> > aware of this problem of "mysteriously dead LCDs" -- usually aged
>>3-5
>>> years
>>> > or "just outside warranty".
>>> >
>>> > Your hit rate should be something like 90% from my experience.
>>> >
>>> > --Toby
>>> > _______________________________________________
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